Agronomic Applications

In addition to traditional Lawn Care Chemical and Organic Agronomic Applications for your lawn packages for both COOL SEASON and WARM SEASON GRASS, we also offer Zoysia Applications, Ornamental Tree & Shrub Applications, Brown Patch Fungicides, Fire Ant Control, Canadian Goose Control and Vegetation Control (stream banks and ponds included).

Cool Season Lawn Agronomic Applications

Step #1 – Early Spring Apply liquid slow release and fast release fertilizer consisting of slow and fast release nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, combined with a pre-emergent for crab grass control.

Step #2 – Late Spring Apply a second application of liquid slow release and fast release fertilizer consisting of slow and fast release nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium combined with a pre-emergent/post-emergent for crab grass control.

Step#3 – Early Summer Apply a liquid slow release fertilizer mixed with a broadleaf weed control and combined with a post-emergent for broad leaf weeds.

Step #4 – Late Summer Apply a granular Dolomitic Lime and, if needed, spot spray a broadleaf weed/post-emergent herbicide on any broadleaf weeds and a targeted herbicide for late emerging crabgrass.

Step #4A – Apply a calcium lime at the time of overseeding to enhance the availability of the fertilizer to the new seedlings.

Step #5 – Early Fall Apply a granular starter type fertilizer at the time of overseeding to help new seedlings grow.

Step #6 – Late Fall Apply a granular starter type fertilizer to continue to help new seedlings grow.

Step #7 – Winter Apply a granular heavy nitrogen content fertilizer to encourage top growth and color in the spring.


Warm Season Zoysia Grass (Not over-seeding)

Feb/March Non-selective Weed Control
Round 1 – Pre-emergent Crabgrass Control

May Fast/Slow Release Fertilizer
Round 2 – Pre-emergent/Post-emergent Crabgrass Control
Broadleaf Weed Control

June Fast/Slow Release Fertilizer
Round 3 – Grassy/Broadleaf Weed Control (if needed)

July Fast/Slow Release Fertilizer
Round 4 – Pre-emergent/Post-emergent Crabgrass Control
Grassy/Broadleaf Weed Control (if needed)

August Fast/Slow Release Fertilizer
Round 5 – Grassy/Broadleaf Weed Control (if needed)

October POA Annua (Annual Bluegrass)Pre-emergent
Round 6 – Potash


Landscape Agronomic Applications

Round #1 – Early Spring
Perform deep root injections of a well-balanced fast/slow release fertilizer, combined with Chelated Iron and micronutrients.

Round #2 – Late Spring
Apply an insect, disease and miticide control to all ornamental trees and shrubbery

Round #3 – Early Summer
Insect, Disease and Miticide control applied to all ornamental trees and shrubbery

Round #4 – Late Summer
Insect, Disease and Miticide control applied to all ornamental trees and shrubbery

Round #5 – Early Fall
If needed, apply Insect, Disease and Miticide control to all ornamental trees and shrubbery

Round #6 – Late Fall – Not at this time
Deep Root Fertilization

Round #7 – Winter
Winter Dormant oil applied to all shrubbery susceptible to scale and over-wintering insects


Types Of Grass Found in Our Region

Cool Season Grass – Most popular for the Piedmont area is cool season grass that thrives in the moderate spring and fall temperatures of the north and northern transition zone. However, cool season grasses don’t like the heat and can go dormant (turn brown) during extended hot, dry conditions. Supplemental water may be needed to keep the lawn green between rains in drought or drought like conditions. Cool season lawns usually contain a blend of tall turf type Fescues.

Common Cool Season Grasses

Kentucky Bluegrass – A fine and tightly knit dark green grass, it is often mixed with other species for best results. It is popular throughout the northern and transition zones for its ability to grow in semi-shady conditions. Bluegrass grows best in loose soil, but if you have heavy clay, aeration is necessary every year. Mow at a height of 3-3.5″ and your bluegrass should be able to withstand slight drought. A common problem is leafspot diseases (think Brown Patch Fungus), which is characterized by brown borders & tan centers to the leaf, and should be treated with fungicide. Make sure your seed bag label doesn’t list Annual Bluegrass, it is a weed.

Perennial Ryegrass – Found primarily in the northern and transition zones, it does need full sun to thrive. Perennial Ryegrass has a medium texture and grows in clumps or bunches but is often blended with fescues and bluegrass for a uniform look and feel and its ability to disguise dormant warm season grasses in the winter. Because of its fast growth it is often used to over-seed a dormant lawn, giving the homeowner a greener lawn year round. Perennial Ryegrass should be mowed at 3-3.5″. Incidentally, if you are a “do it yourselfer” don’t be tempted to save money by getting Annual ryegrass, it is much rougher and much less attractive.

Fine Fescue – An excellent performer in semi-shade and cold, this is often added to fill in where other cool season species fail. It has three varieties; creeping red fescue, hard fescue and chewings fescue. A heat wave of more than a week could require more care and watering, as high temps tend to stress this type of grass out. Fine fescue a good choice for high traffic areas and can handle most soil conditions and climates. It is one of the few Fescues that can be planted in the spring and also be mowed at a height of 3-3.5″.

Kentucky 31 – One of the older “proven” lawn grass varieties with a light green, coarse texture.  K-31 remains popular still because of it’s lower price and good overall usage qualities (drought / wear / easy establishment). While Kentucky 31 tall fescue has and is used extensively for live stock pasture grass, agronomists no longer recommend Kentucky 31 for livestock pastures due to the presence of endophytes. Endophytes are a naturally occurring fungus in fescue grass species that protect the grass from insects and disease. The problem with endophytes is that they cause issues with cattle and horses (primarily brood mares) that graze on fescue grass that contains them. Please note: Agronomists no longer recommend Kentucky 31 for pasture usage. Newer tall fescue grass species for pastures such as MaxQ, Bronson Tall Fescue, Bull Tall Fescue and K-32 do not have the endophyte problems and show better livestock yields and performance.

Tall Turf Type Fescue – Multiple varieties, each with its own characteristics. Most are Deep rooted, cool-season perennial bunch grass that starts out as a single tiller. Leaf blades are glossy on the underside and serrated on the margins. Leaf blades may be wide to narrow with a rolled vernation (stem), Blades smooth on turf-type, coarse on others. Tall turf type Fescue does not spread, the tillers so due to natural attrition it should be over-seeded each year. It is the prettiest year around grass and does not go dormant in the wintertime.


Establishing – A cool season lawn can best be established from seed or sod. When laying sod, it is important to keep it constantly moist until the sod roots into the soil. Sod can be laid anytime the ground is not frozen but special precautions should be taken if it is laid during the hot summer months. The best time to seed cool season grass is in the fall. Little known fact – there are 225,000 seeds in a pound of tall turf type Fescue.

Establishment – Somewhat slow but not as slow as bluegrass. Needs plentiful water to establish, then very drought tolerant. Usually used in mixes/blends due to its adaptability and quick germination. It is medium textured, dense grass that grows in clumps that do not spread. Tall fescue is wear tolerant and is popular on sports fields and other high traffic lawns.

All of our 100% Blended Fescue seed is guaranteed to have “0%” weed seed, “0%” inert matter, and 0% other matter in it. It is also guaranteed to have a 90% germination rate


Warm Season Turf Grass

Warm season grasses are used in southern lawns and some transition zone lawns where the temperatures are favorable. The establishment and maintenance of warm season grasses is slightly different than cool-season grasses. They produce well in the summer and can thrive in soil that is less than ideal. The greatest benefit to warm season grasses is their ability to thrive in the intense heat of a southern summer. Warm season grasses should be seeded between mid-April and mid-May, however, most warm season grasses fare better when started from sprigging, plugs or sod than from seed.

Zoysia – Grown in both the Southern and Transition zone, it is known for its fine, lush vegetation. It grows best in full sun and should be watered if drought is longer than one week. Best method for establishing a Zoysia lawn is by sod, as it grows slowly. Zoysia should be mowed short, at 1-2” and cleanly cutting the fine yet stiff blade.

Bermuda – Common throughout the south, it is an aggressive, coarse grass that grows by spreading runners or “stolons” along the ground surface. It thrives in heat, requiring full sun and is drought resistant. Bermuda is green from late spring until frost when it turns brown and goes dormant. During the dormancy (Fall), many homeowners choose to ask us to over-seed their Bermuda grass or transitional Fescue/Bermuda Grass lawns with a ryegrass or Ryegrass/Fescue blend to maintain a green lawn year round. Unlike most grasses, Bermuda must be mowed low at a height of 1-2 inches, and is the best option for heavy traffic. Infamous for creeping and taking over neighboring beds, the best time to clear the wayward plants is in the winter when dormant.

Bahia – Extremely heat and drought resistant, it grows best in Florida and along the entire gulf and Southern Atlantic coastlines. It is a good choice for heavy traffic areas and rarely needs to be watered. The grass is coarse and grows in bunches and the roots can be as deep as 8ft. It is also widely used in cattle pastures. It is highly disease and insect resistant and should be mowed every 5-7 days. Bahia grass has tough stems so it is important to keep your mower blades sharp and set your mower to 3″ so you are definitely cutting leaves.

Centipede – Extremely slow growing and drought tolerant, this grass is very low maintenance. Found mostly in the southeast, centipede grows well in acidic soil and it thrives in full sun but will manage with partial shade. Centipede grass grows by spreading stolons or runners above ground, while the rhizomes or roots creep below the soil. This grass is fairly shallow rooted, which can lead to problems with nutrient uptake. Your centipede lawn should be mowed high at about 3″ and only water if a drought lasts longer than one week. Centipede grass generally performs well without the need for fertilizers, so take care not to over-fertilize. Nematodes, microscopic worms that infect the roots, are a common problem with centipede grasses and their presence can be confirmed by a soil test which we can do for you.

St. Augustine – Usually grown at the coast as it does best in sandy soil and salty air. It grows fast and spreads using runners or stolons. It has a bluish green color that lasts into the fall, but it should have supplemental water if it doesn’t rain for longer than a week. This type of grass should be mowed at 2-3″ and should be fertilized with extra iron since sandy soils are often deficient. Two common problems with this grass are a virus called St. Augustine Decline (SAD) and Chinchbugs. SAD causes yellow spots on the leaf blade and may require planting plugs of resistant varieties, but fertilizing with iron should help maintain the color even while fighting this virus. Chinchbugs can be brought under control thought the use of properly timed application of an insecticide to the lawn.


Brown Patch Applications

Brown Patch Fungus is very prevalent in this area when the humidity rises and the day temperatures warm into the 80s or higher with accompanying warmer nights. For this reason, I have added in two Brown Patch Fungicide treatments to protect your newly sodded lawn for the first 60 days. Additional treatments may become necessary if the humidity and temperatures stay high though the summer months especially with the additional watering required. The extra treatments (over and above the intial two) will be at an additional cost of $85.00 per application.

 

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